Luderitz

 

 

 

 

8th April 2014: A very hot day, and we anchored off the mining town of Luderitz in Namibia. It was the first German settlement in South West Africa and to this day has a “germanic feel” to it.

It became a boom town with the discovery of gold and diamonds and by 1910 had 60 diamond companies with offices in town with railway line and all. Unfortunately, as with all booms, things went bust when the diamonds ran out and then the water ran out, so what is left today is just a small mining town desperately clinging on the edge of the desert to avoid being blown into the sea, trying to reopen the railway, (above) and exporting zinc ore by road.

Because of this, Luderitz was like some sort of Wild West ghost town, with empty roads disappearing into the desert at the edge of town, buildings half built, projects abandoned, the church on the hill with the dirt road up to it…

We loved it! Such a contrast to Cape Town which was all civilised etc. Here you could finally feel just how tough a time the early settlers had when they gave up everything to go and try and change the world. With its buildings, many now owned by the mining company, they have tried to preserve the old town so that even those with little imagination can see the old railway station, the old bank or Goerke House below.

Hans Goerke, came to Luderitz in 1904 and by 1909 was the manager of three diamond mines. So he built a fine house overlooking the flourishing town importing the finest fittings from Germany. He then went back to Germany and brought back a wife. (Special offer at Aldi) However the fine house did not meet her exacting requirements and during the next two years, she redecorated from top to bottom three times. Finally returning to Germany after two years in her new home….

Going back to the story of the railway, it is coming back, though somewhat delayed and I ask you to look at the picture above.  Instead of lifting the bridge, they have decided to lower the track down through bedrock. Also note the new paved (blockwork)  road, just laid, in front of the track….yes it will all have to be torn up for the  train tracks…

Our first stop in Namibia was quite different to how we thought it would be, plus a forthright guide which made it even better.